Cross-shore mean flow in the surf zone

Scaling surf zone turbulence

[1] Turbulence in the surf zone, the shallow region adjacent to the shoreline, has a key role in beach erosion, fertilization, dispersal, and larval settlement of marine invertebrates, and microbial contamination dilution in beach waters. Breakingwave generated (the dominant source) surf zone turbulence is understood poorly. A new surf zone turbulent dissipation rate scaling is derived, that co...

The Vertical Structure of Shallow Water Flow in the Surf Zone and Inner Shelf

1. Theoretical investigations of the vertical structure of mean currents, tidal flows, and low frequency (infragravity) oscillations on the inner shelf and inside the surf zone. This work expands on recent theoretical developments for shear instabilities that follow methodology developed for tidal flows on the continental shelf. Results will be compared with field data examined as part of the s...

Final Reports For Award # N 0014 - 07 - l - 0556 PI : Dr . Adrianus Reniers Title : Linking the Surf Zone and Inner Shelf : Cross - shore Transportation Mechanisms 20110120310

Microwave radar cross sections and Doppler velocities measured in the surf zone

[1] The relationship between microwave imaging radar measurements of fluid velocities in the surf zone and shoaling, breaking, and broken waves is studied with field observations. Normalized radar cross section (NRCS) and Doppler velocity are estimated from microwave measurements at near-grazing angles, and in situ fluid velocities are measured with acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs). Joint h...

Extreme water velocities: Topographical amplification of wave-induced flow in the surf zone of rocky shores

Water velocities as high as 25 m s21 have been recorded in the surf zone of wave-swept rocky shores—velocities more than twice the phase speed of the breaking waves with which they are associated. How can water travel twice as fast as the waveform that initially induces its velocity? We explore the possibility that the interaction of a wave with the local topography of the shore can greatly amp...